Pocketship Project For Sale

After 2+ years of trying (or not), I'm hanging up my boatbuilding spurs.  I have a partially built (see previous post for current status of the build (I haven't touched her in over a year)) Pocketship with all of the marine-grade ply cut out and ready to assemble, 2 copies of instruction manual, all plans and patterns, and fiberglass. I kept all scraps too (which does come in handy).

The new owner will have to arrange shipping or pick up.  I will tell you, this does fit in the back of a >18' Uhaul, so with the casters I installed on the cradle, it's relatively easy.

Also, up for negotiation, I may include the table saw, router, workbench, 6' folding table (real handy), and 25lb lead bricks and lead-shot bags. I even have one of those portable tent/canopy/garages I was planning on storing her in up for sale.

Why am I selling (everyone will ask)? Between losing my motivation over time, ending a long-term relationship, getting older, and having to move to Texas for work (not because I want to), I've decided to let it go too.

All reasonable offers will be considered and after an unspecified amount of time (during 2015) the best one gets her or off she goes to the bone yard.

In with the car, out with the boat

I'm hoping weekly updates will inspire me to keep motivated without boring my fans to much. 

After a whole week of house and pet sitting (9 pets in all) and overdue car maintenance,  it's out with the boat and in with the car. 

But, with regards to the boat this week, not all (learning) is lost. I thought the boat might be kinda easy getting out of the garage compared to getting it back into the garage. As you can see, the driveway is on an incline. Much to my surprise,  it was just as easy getting it back into the garage. The boat and cradle, at this point are only about 200 lbs. That and the fact I mounted 8 wheels under the cradle made it a breeze. What you see under the front of the cradle are a couple of my lead ballast bags used as wheel chocks. I also threw some blankets on her to protect her from the brutal Az UV rays (the back half of the boat is in the shade).

More Hull & Bulkheads

Weekly update (starting now lol).

This step (stitching in bulkheads) is on p.67. If you read far enough ahead (p.83, but is first pictured on p.72), a temporary lower-breast-hook needs to be installed between now and the glassing stage (future builders take note). I will remove the actual lower-breast-hook right before fiberglassing this area.

Also, notice I added a bit of plywood vertically behind bulkhead 2. That's where the wiring will be tied down later.

I added the cleat on bulkhead 2 at this point because so many people were having problems here when attaching it earlier. However, I have my own challenge: the R.Bottom Hull is bulging upwards about 1" at Floor#3. When I put my weight on it, it drops that floor even with the rest. I hope as construction continues, that will pop into place. Just in case, I plan to add some weight there during filleting and glassing and hope it holds. I guess that's why not too many people build wooden boats in the VERY DRY Arizona desert (this stuff is warping, but the overall construction should iron most of it out). 

Hull & bulkheads

Hmmm, for some reason the 18 gauge wire isn't holding up. So I used some hanger wire on the 2 holes on the end. Now it's yielding. Time to get more wire already and guess what I learned while at the hardware store? The reason my wire was breaking was because I grabbed the "aluminum" wire instead of the "steel" wire. That explains a lot.

Time to install floor (support) #4. Looks about 5" inches too high.

Love those bar clamps (not the one on the stem). Just long enough. Floor #4 down.

Now it's starting to look like a boat in here.

Nobody's sharing any Indian tricks how you get back in here (without breaking any ply or wires) to install the floors (bulkheads) so I will. Lay down some ply big enough to distribute your weight. Then proceed gingerly. Not easy to see but there's a 10"x36" piece of ply over the rear Keelson to help distribute my weight so I can install the floors/bulkheads.

Until you do this, you have no idea the tremendous amount of tension going here. Don't worry, those gaps will close as the bulkheads are installed.

Just take it in.

I just wanted to add a visual aid to show where the strong areas are to get started. The rectangle at the stern is a piece of ply laid down to distribute my weight as I go in and out of the hull. At this point, I'm holding off on the transom install. After Floor 4, add Floor 3, then 5 and 6. Now you can lay a board on top of those and move around a lot easier to do the rest. But make sure most of your weight is on Floors 3 & 4. Floors 5 & 6 want to pivot down if you put too much weight on these two. Also, the areas at Bulkheads 4 & 7 are directly over the cradle (lots of support at these areas).  Don't let the creaking and moaning bother you. One wire stitch isn't that strong but there's about 200 stitches working together here. Once the fillet "tack welds" are in (I hear), that goes away.

Preparation, Preparation, Preparation...

Enough preparation! You have no idea how much time & work is involved with fiberglassing, epoxying, curing (waiting, waiting, waiting), more epoxying, sanding, sanding, and more sanding goes into this project until you actually do it! Holy crap!

I tried to do as much as I could before hull assembly while I had the space. Now it's time. 

1

2

3

I Never completely understood why the rear keel had to be blocked up. Leveling? Not so much (exactly). There's 100-lbs of lead back there.

Hull Prep: Floors, Bulkheads & Glass Upper Hull

After a couple weeks on this phase, I've decided (while I have the space) to continue prepping all of the big pieces that I can before assembling the hull. Once the cradle and hull are up, it's gonna get a little cramped in Ye Ol Boatyard. 

Inside upper hull fiberglassing.

Floors with chines being epoxied.

Top: glassed, not sanded. You can see the weave projecting through 3 coats of epoxy.

Bottom: glassed & sanded.

Mid Hull: Fiberglass layout.

Bulkheads: epoxy coating before hull assembly.

Background: new centerboard (yes, itsa do over).

I'm The First!

Whilst preparing to assemble the hull and its cradle, I quickly realized that I will be seriously limited on space to build that AND cut remaining sheets later on (fyi, there are 2 cars in the driveway that i'll be too lazy to move every time I want to do some large cutting).  So, I decided to take the time to cut everything now. Next thing I knew, the "boat yard" got a little bigger (imagine that).

I also attempted to cut my transom out of the "half-sheet" of ply, per the plans, and, guess what? You can't cut a 58" transom out of 48" square of ply. Not even diagonally. I brought this to John C.'s attention and he was just as surprised since it seems I'm the first one (out of dozens of PS builders) to attempt this feat. He's makin it right by sending me another transom. What a guy!

What I've been doing these last few weekends. EVERYTHING cut! 

Next: Stitch & glue the hull.

Phase One: Finished!

About 16 squirts of unthickened epoxy to fill holes in Center Board, prep contact areas between keelson & keel, and the rest thickened to attach keelson. I didn't check for gaps and mark for extra adhesive during dry run. Had to pull apart after the fact which was time consuming and messy.

About 100# of lead holding 

down the bow area. 

Viola! Keel done!

Next: Hull Construction

Closing Up The Keel

Did you all remember to put a coin in your keels for good luck? 

Next: Cut out cradle, fiberglass center board, & assemble cradle. 

Final Lead Pour

This was a big area that took a few trips from the smelter.
Next: rear cap and keelson.

120-lbs of scrap lead yielded about 20-lbs of "non-lead" material (mostly clips).

Next: sand down that lead and fiberglass.

Progress!

Centerboard fabricated and ready for lead-pour.

Notes: while rabbeting the ballast, don't forget (as I did) to rabbet the leading and trailing edges before glue-up (not later with table saw; router would be much easier). I will make up for it by double-up with fiberglass overlays (I hope) next. I also drilled out pivet holes and screw holes to be filled in later with epoxy along with the screw holes from the ballast lead backing (you see here).

All prepped and ready to go for smelting.

Notes:
Smelter is actually a turkey baster I bought last Black Friday for only $40.
The lead weights I got (mostly for free) from local Mexican tire shops.
Instead of manually sifting out non-lead pieces, I just threw everything in the smelter and scooped them out with a steel strainer spoon (easy peazy).
Propane tank: borrowed from girlfriend and filled at Shell for a $1 less/gal than every place else (pays to shop around).
Lead buckets can be heavy; cheap furniture dollies from Harbor Freight come in handy.
When filling keel, fill one end, and let cool, before filling the other end. The bow needs to be elevated to level the rear ballast before pouring there (that's what the milk crate is for).

The opening for lead ballast.

Yeah, lots of smoke here. This continued to boil at least 10 more minutes after the pour (I was worried if there would be any wood left; why epoxy inside here when it all gets burned up I don't know, but I'm not the expert).

Notice the stainless strainer I used to scoop out all the non-lead material. All this from just the little bit I just poured into the bow and centerboard (rear keel later).

Mistakes will be made

No matter how hard you try not to, mistakes will be made. Got carried away belt sanding the keel blocking and sanded about 1/4" too much. Thank goodness for epoxy thickeners.

Next: sanding everything fair followed by smelting (lead pour).

Just above the string, you can see the gap.

Just above the string, you can see the gap.

Problem solved.

Boat Names

Now would be a good time to consider boat names for my PS. Some ideas I have are: Caviar (my last name is Roe), Valour (one of the 7 virtues), Nauti1, Bok Choy (it just sounds cool to me). Open for other suggestions. People don't be shy.

Daggerboard trunk & keel dry-run (pre-glue-up)

Added blocking under rear to try to avoid the skewing of the centerline that frequently happens here. Thinking about drilling pilot screws at pivot points to help minimize the time it takes lining everything up during glue-up (of course I'll fill the holes later with epoxy). It's still in the 90's here in Arizona and even slow-cure epoxy dries fast here.

Glueing up the trunk

Finally, hopefully, back on track with my project.

Blocking up the trunk

Not sure exactly why I have to sand this smooth/shiney surface down but I'm not a pro and the pro says "do it".

16' patterns...7 of them!

Glassing the trunk

My first attempt at fiberglassing...not bad.

Previously...

So I’m late starting my blog, but did keep somewhat of a record of the early progress (start at bottom & read up):

1/17: 1-wk cure on planks stress-test: passed! But there are gaps on the outside. Fairing will be needed.

1/16: hole cutter arrived. Cut beautiful/perfect holes in trunk. It’s art compared to the crap I cut the first time.

1/15: ordered cast-iron kettle from Ace: $19. Every place else was around $40. Ace is the place.

1/14: more dagger/trunk prep.  Found/ordered circle cutter from Hole Pro (very expensive, but worth it to me to cut nice holes. This project will have a few).

1/13: cut dagger/trunk. I cut lousy circles. They really look retarded. Need circle cutter.

First scarf cuts.

Final scarf cuts. Next: epoxy bonding.

12/27: cut first scarfs. Cutting scarfs is nerve-racking because the concern is fouling up expensive material and buying more and starting over. But I took my time and it came out pretty good.

12/26: bought 2 oil-filled radiator heaters for Boat Yard. Getting cold up in here in Arizona-town.

12/20: exchanged bad shop light and bought ply for cradle.

12/19: added shop lights

Got wood? 15 sheets of marine grade plywood finally here. White piece on top will be the transom.

12/14: Delivered but a couple pcs have splits (not real bad) and blemishes that look like either mold or rot. I hope not.

12/13: appt made to drop off tomorrow 2-6pm. We'll see.

12/7: Noah's finally sent out another batch of plywood. Tracking info says: 12/13.

12/1: Lost plywood ordered finally found in Pennsylvania and sent back here. When it arrived, it was pretty dinged up. I could’ve cut off the edges and worked with it but I paid a lot of money for quality stuff and this wasn’t quality. So I sent it back and told Noah ‘s to pack it right this time (love my attitude).

11/23: Ordered f/glass from Noah's ($295) and epoxy (as I go) from West Marine (here in Tempe). More expensive, but I need to get this project started. Time is valuable to me and I WILL pay for it (isn't that one of the 7 deadly sins? I hope not). That little comment inspired me to look that up which, in turn, lead me to the Seven Heavenly Virtues and my possible boat name: Valour (pursuit of knowledge). Pretty cool but I have long list of name ideas. More on that later.

11/20: Called again to FUP. Told me to call Noah's. Noah's said they'll look into it and get another shipment out to me right away. Great attitude! We'll see. Also bought first lot (1 of 10) of epoxy today…ouch! $150 for 1-gal of resin and 1-qt of hardener.

Ordered fiberglass from Noah's and tape from CLC.

11/19: Called UPS. "wtf Chuck?" They have no idea.

11/17: After waiting 5 hours, UPS Freight never showed up!

11/16: Plywood due in. Damn that was fast (N.E. coast to Az)!

11/13: Found some free lead (for smelting into the keel) at Mexican tire store (no politics there). Will use lead-shot for hull ballast now.

11/11: Bought lead shot for keel & dagger board. On sale at Cabela's, $40.50/25-lb bag, pretty good. Too much government control at Corp tire stores.

11/6: Marine-grade plywood is impossible to find unless you look in the upper northwest or east coast. So I found the best price and reputation just north of Niagra Falls and ordered plywood from Noah's. $1k cheaper than CLC.

10/25: Received plans and patterns. Called Kinkos for a copy quote. I'd like to keep my masters prestine. Found out it's cheaper to buy another set if needed. Also, cleaned out garage and converted to “Ye Ol' Boat Yard”.

10/19: Ordered plans. Asked ACE for plywood quote. They used to carry marine grade, not any more. Wo is me.

10/16: Ordered instruction manual. Read cover to cover and looks very do-able.

10/12: Decision to build the PocketShip was made. A compromise between the CH21 and SV - I think. Sacrifices will have to be made to get this done in a timely manner: like drastically reduced frivolous spending and virtually no leisure travelling (hard to do since I work for the airlines).

PocketShip

PS Inside Cabin

CLC POCKET SHIP (begin; read up)

10/1: Decision to build the CH21 instead of SV was made. Costs, weight, are a little more, but a much nicer traditional boat.

CH-21 moored.

CH-21 Inside

CAPE HENRY 21 (begin; read up)

9/26: Learned Ace has ACX plywood. HD (Home Depot) does not (they have BC).

9/25: Bought workbench, some tools, and garage organizing stuff.

9/14 Received plans.

9/6 Ordered plans/DVD.

9/5 Measure my half of garage: (10x22) Driveway: 8x24

Stevenson Vacationer

STEVENSON VACATIONER (begin; read up)